Each month we highlight a place of interest around the globe that we consider as unique as Borgo di Vagli. The tips are selected as they either show respect for the environment, nature, and architectural beauty or are deeply indigenous to their individual origin.
This month our resort director Stefania Civitelli and her adventurous Scottish fiancé Oliver highlight a treasure only a few hours drive from the Hamlet.
Despite being only a couple of hours drive north of Borgo di Vagli, I had never heard of Punta Chiappa until this slice of heaven was introduced to me by Fulvio, who, as a child, spent his summers in this beautiful part of Italy. Many know the more wellknown, but often too crowded, neighbors of the Cinque Terre. But Punta Chiappa is a dramatic bluff on the coats between Golfo Paradiso and Portofino Mountain and to add its exclusivity and in a sense protection from the masses, is only reachable by boat or via a beautiful 30 minutes hike through the woods.
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We were there in late May and unfortunately the weather was inclement for the time of year but by the time we arrived in the colourful fishermen town of Camogli, the sun was shining and a light breeze was blowing in from the sea…
After a quick slice of their delicious "focaccia con formaggio" and a glass of crisp local white wine, all I wanted to do was jump on the next ferry and discover the jewel Lord Byron described in his poems.
We were the only passengers on the boat and with the wind in our hair the Captain reminded us of the days when fishermen who lived on this remote strip of land sent children like himself to school in San Rocco, an hours walk through the woods which reminded me so much of Borgo di Vagli and the children, who also walked along our access road to the local primary school situated at the foot of the 10th century Pierle Castle.
When we reached the tiny port with its shrine, we saw the few colourful homes and the handmade fishermen nets hanging to dry in the sun in the middle of the unspoiled nature, we couldn't stop wondering whether we had just been ferried 10 minutes away or directly into another century... the feeling of being alone in a world without cars and no other noises other than the waves crashing against the rocks and a few seagulls flying over our heads, made it the perfect getaway for a fantastic three days.
The dimora storica Stella Maris (www.stellamaris.cc) dates back to the '700 and is the only accommodation in the punta.
Built on the ruins of an old monastery, it has a unique position overlooking the bay from its terraces and the 14 bedrooms all scattered around the gardens were sympathetically restored a few years earlier… the restoration, just like that at Borgo, was not a simple matter as you may imagine, with most materials being transported either by boat or helicopter… today the fresh fish served in the restaurant gets brought ashore with the same pulley used to carry bricks and cement.
Renovated with great respect for its beautiful environment, this place chosen by Lord Byron for his meditation and writing is the perfect base for Nature lovers who can enjoy unlimited k's of hiking trails with the most spectacular walk being the one to San Fruttuoso Abbey.
Built by the Greek monks in the 10th century and having gone through several incarnations from a Benedictine monastery, a pirates’ den, a humble home of fishermen, the Abbey of San Fruttuoso is an utterly unique place, where the work of Man has been completely integrated with that of Nature.
With its pristine turquoise beach, just in front and the famous Christ of the Abyss to see 15 meters deep in the water, we couldn't hope for a better place to wait for the sunset…
And to close our dreamy three days in Liguria, a great dinner was enjoyed in the terrace over the cliffs of "Trattoria Drin" in Porto Pidocchio, where just as at your home in Tuscany, mother and daughter prepare the most delicious home made dishes with the freshest fish of the day.
Thank you Fulvio for this great suggestion, we will certainly be back!
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