After six years of ownership at Vagli, it's time to take stock. It's difficult to do so without sounding too gushing, because the experience has been such a delight on so many levels. It has not just been about the integrity of Fulvio's restoration of Vagli, combining, as it does, modern amenities with such faith to the history of the place, nor about the beauty and tranquility of the location.

Nor has it been merely about the high standard to which the apartments and grounds are kept. All of these are necessaries and vital foundation stones of the experience which we have so much enjoyed. But, even more, it's about the people, the warmth and charm of the welcome, the meetings with people from the far corners of the globe, over an excellent meal in the Trattoria, people who share a common interest in this endlessly fascinating part of the world.

On a practical basis, we wondered, at the outset, how fractional ownership would work out. Would we scramble to be able to come when we wanted to? So far, the verdict has been entirely positive, with no problems encountered. We wondered if the initial quality of maintenance would be kept up. It has. Indeed, each new year brings small, but tangible, improvements. Fulvio has retained his enthusiasm for the place and is a regular, charming and informative companion at dinner.

Slowly, the place has seeped into our bones. Each season has brought its delights. The swimming pool has been a haven on hot summer days. Harvest has its festivals and celebrations - although I must admit that even the most enthusiastic toscanophile and gourmet may draw the line at a polenta festival!

Cortona, that ancient city, with its Etruscan foundations and mediaeval and Renaissance buildings, retains its charms unspoilt by excessive tourism. A wine tasting dinner organised by Marco Molesini inevitably leads to new acquaintances in Cortona, as nourishing as the food and wine themselves.

Wander a little in the quieter east of Tuscany, along the Tiber valley, roaming in and out of Umbria, and you come across gems such as Anghiari and Sansepolcro, with its astonishing de la Francesca Resurrection. Each village or town seems to harbour artistic treasures, the enjoyment if which can then be reflected upon during an excellent lunch.

One final concern was that Vagli might not be quite the thing for our children - a concern allayed by their regular stays here, both with us and with their friends.

Have I been gushing? I hope not. I have tried to reflect the real pleasure which returning here time after time has brought us. Always a warm welcome from Stefania and Daria - both absolute models of charm and helpfulness. Always good fellowship with Fulvio and Lee. Always tolerance from the excellent Dina and Tiziana when we invade the kitchen and serenade Dina, Regina de la Cucina, in the style of the worst amateur operatics known to man!

And always a feeling that it was, indeed, a lucky day when, quite by chance, we learnt of the existence of Vagli.

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